我愛Peelings！

我躺在沙發上看著我最喜歡的電視購物頻道（傳說舒爾茨博士從 dermTV）當脫皮發癢的面具在我臉上讓我想起了文檔的任務分配給我：要了解有關 peelability性質的對外關係PX銀色魅影相紙，因為大家都知道，現在不僅可以防止脫皮你的形象被攻擊的邪惡殺手 christl又是一個起點為所有種 eggziting模擬作品。

為何剝離了
工作？

在分離層任務的主要障礙可稱為面具，白層四周和底部的PX的圖片，把圖片和膠水纏繞在一起。

為了克服這一障礙，只需把洗出來的照片周圍的地方，打開粘在負面部分在相紙背面的密封面具是（一把鋒利的刀子將有所幫助）

fig 1. 從後層分離表層 （LLP將有所幫助）	fig 2. 簡單地削剪頂部

一旦你放鬆了分層（雙關語意）的表面，你只要拉上層和底層就可以

fig 3. 層層拉開	fig 4. 輕柔而確定地拉

但…

你到底在這裡剝離什麼？

由於我本人是進行剝離技術的較為創新者，我覺得應該給一點背景資料給你們那些（像我）在過去只有剝過香蕉皮和你臉頰上的皮膚的人。

即使一張完整的圖片真的包含983層，只有4層相關的剝離層：負面，幹乳劑，圖片層，聚酯薄膜（透明窗口頂部圖）

當我開始接觸剝離，我很快發現，基本上有三種方式中剝離，並在相關的4層操作：

會得到哪一個四不完全取決於你 - 據我發現這取決於之間拍攝，剝離與溫度間的時間差..並極有可能包括月相。嚴肅點講，關鍵是乳化層的狀態 - 如果它還沒完全乾透，剝離的一部分還有另一部分停留在負面上，如果它太幹也容易粘到相紙的薄膜層。
現在我的第一驚喜發現是，在對 PX600進行剝離時，如果你在相片沖洗出來後剝離速度夠快（拍攝 10分鐘後），

沒問題，只要擺脫了表层，从相知的薄膜分离出负片。我的第二個 eggziting發現是：（因為我用第二种方法进行剥离）

（見下面的第 6段，你將能夠理解我的激动）。

Read On About Freezy-Peasy Here

Discovering the

Freezy-Peasy Way!

Red/Brownisation of PX 600?

Now that I found out how much the PX600 accomodates us to fight the evil killer-christl by his high peelability, I wanted to find out if the peeling can also fight the annoying fact that PX film turns rather brownish when shot in warm temperature. It happened to be a rather hot day (over 30° celsius) when I did my eggsperiments and even when peeling a picture super quickly after shot, with this high temperature, the image turned brown immediately.

So my first idea was to develop the picture in the fridge, but I have to admit that I didn't have much suxxess with this - the pictures turned brown even if I ran the 5 meters from the couch in my livingroom (where I took them) to the fridge in the kitchen. After having wasted a couple of minutes trying to move the fridge to the livingroom, smart boy that I am, I moved the couch to the kitchen immediately next to the fridge. But even with this setup I had not much suxxess, even if I put the pic into the fridge a couple of seconds after the shot, the evil brownisation occurred. So (smart boy that I am) I figured that the temperature of the chemicals in the moment of exposure would be the crucial point, so my next attempt was to put the whole filmpack into the fridge for a couple of hours before taking the shot. To make a sad story short, also this approach didn't help much, the pictures still became brown faster than I could turn them around and fetch the knife.. with the additional disadvantage that these pre-cooled pictures were almost impossible to peel - the developing layer always tore apart when seperating mylar from negative - probably some kind of condensation phenomenon (see fig. 9) ..and the pictures were still brown! .. almost as much as my popo, that I wanted to bite in utmost frustration!

fig. 9

broken emulsion layer

But I was possessed with ambition - there simply had to be some way to avoid the brownisation! So if the fridge didn't help, the next logical step was the freezer.
I put anotha pack of PX600 into the freezer for 10 minutes and took the first shot.. the result was rather underwhelming (see upper left of fig. 10), so I put the SLR680 back into the fridge for anotha 10 minutes (didnt wanna loose a pic by taking the film out of the camera). The next shot looked promising, so I repeated the procedure a couple of times, till the electronics of the camera gave up the ghost cause of acute hypothermia (and the chemicals in the pic refused to do their work - see lower right of fig.10)

fig. 10

pictures taken with progressively frozen film
(lower right, development severely handicapped - encouraged by
means of a lighter in the area around the eyes)

I had finished the packs of PX600 I had taken home and was quite happy with the results:
I had found out that PX600 can easily be peeled to prevent the christl - and that the brownisation can be controlled by development in the freezer*
(*note for the sceptic ones: the effect is permanent - I had put the pix into the backoven for over an hour in the hope that they would peel more easily - levels of sepiasation did not change anymore)

More Fun

With the freezer!

A few hours later my wife came home. Now finally having a decent model (everybody who knows me, knows that I hate shooting my ugly face) I was eager to continue the freezer research with PX100 film.
This time I didn't pre-cool the filmpack, but tried to get the picture into the freezer as fast as possible after it had been ejected from the camera (thankgod the couch was still in the kitchen).
Everybody who has ever watched PX Silver Shade develop, knows the wondaful special effects a pic passes through during the process of development, the blue opacification dye (called "Gardinenfarbstoff") slowly vanishing, various otha colors appearing and vanishing again, the phases of solarisation when parts of the image look like inverted... quite a spectacular show. Now I was fascinated by the idea of being able to capture parts of this by slowing down the development process in the freezer and then quickly peeling the image in a state before it was fully developed.
With a bit of practice I managed to seperate the layers even before the Gardinenfarbstoff had vanished (see upper part of fig. 11)

fig. 11

developed in freezer and peeled early

The results were fascinating documents of frozen stages of development - and they were even stable (pics in fig.12 scanned 24 hours after separation) - what supercool fun!

Now having tasted the joy of freeze-peeling, I became even more adventurous. I was fascinated by the potential which the combination of slowed down development and peeling early offered and wanted to test out its limits (since the wife suffered from pneumonia due to the long time in the freezer the evening before, I had to revert to my previous model - my favourite one, as everybody who knows me knows) I played around with cutting the frozen negative, mixing layers of different filmtypes and all kind of otha groovy things that came to my playful mind.

See below for some results of my experimental rush..

fig. 13

shape of glasses cut from the negative and put back onto pic to
prolong development in this area

fig. 14

hybrid develoment - PX 100 image layer on (unexposed) TZ Artistic
negative and vice versa

fig. 15

"hybrid double exposure" - mixing image and negative layers of a
freshly exposed PX 100 and freshly exposed Spectra picture

I don't wanna go into much details about these stunts, let me just tell you that I had a huge lot of fun! So roll up your sleeves, move the couch near the freezer and start having fun too! Sometimes PX Silver Shade film might appear to be a pain in the youknowwhere, but in facts its potential to have fun and live your adventurous spirit out is enormous!

Don't throw away your PX images that you consider failures too hastily - by peeling the pic and getting access to the backside of the emulsion layer, you get a second chance to produce breathtaking art! "Draw" on the pic by scratching the emulsion or beautify your pic by applying color to the back of the emulsion..

Also emulsion lift/transfer works like a charm with PX Silver Shade. Read all the details about manipulation techniques

Here

Yours truly,